None. It made me feel welcome and willing to dive deep into FInnegan's memories. Subscribe to Deadline Breaking News Alerts and keep your inbox happy. From an early age, surfing was part of Finnegan's DNA, thanks in large part to the freedom he enjoyed as a kid first in California, then, Hawaii. Goodreads helps you keep track of books you want to read. Noté /5. Finnegan nails the lure of the waves perfectly.

In other words, making something exceedingly difficult look easy.

Still, Finnegan considerately shows himself paying the price of admission in a few near drownings, and these are among the most electrifying moments in the book…There are too many breathtaking, original things in Barbarian Days to do more than mention here—observations about surfing that have simply never been made before, or certainly never so well.” —The New York Times Book Review  “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read… All this technical mastery and precise description goes hand in hand with an unabashed, infectious earnestness. Rezension aus dem Vereinigten Königreich vom 1. Surfing only looks like a sport. He’s observant and expressive but shows careful restraint in his zeal.

Can This Unsponsored, Middle-Aged Man Save Surfing? For surfers, the book is The Endless Summer writ smarter and larger, touching down at every iconic break." He knows this world, but it has been our conversations of all the meaning, heartbreak, and discovery that lies beyond the waves that made me see this was more than a film. I found the endless dissection of waves and surfing techniques repetitious and lacking in power to move the narrative forward.

Finnegan captures the way that surfing changes ones life decisions without getting dragged into mystic gobbledygook. Each of these pursuits can be highly pleasurable, but there is no overlap between surfing and either of the other two.

War ein Geschenk - Sprache und Inhalt haben den Beschenkten begeistert.

But talking about surfing to the general public is a whole other thing. I surfed one pretty big day with an Australian friend, a human rights lawyer, at Padang Padang. Nach 30 Tagen 9,95 €/Monat, jederzeit kündbar, Unbegrenzt Audible Original Podcasts hören. D-BAG DAYS: SPARE THE ROD AND SPOIL THE CHILD. Leseprobe. It’s easily the best book ever written about surfing.

Vivian totally gets it. Finnegan takes home $10,000 and one of the most prestigious awards in Arts and Letters. How to do a Frontside Cutback With Josh Kerr, 10 Things You Should Take on Your Next Surf Road Trip, 6 Female-Founded Surfwear Brands We Tested This Summer, Jon Wayne Freeman "Charges" The Wedge, Seeks Sponsorship Deal. Very well written.

So I guess for me this is a writing award, as far as I’m concerned. Barbarian Days is Finnegan's autobiography/memoir of his life as a surfer. William Finnegan is moving through his life, from continent to continent, and there is a lot of surfing on the way.

Many surfers paddle out wearing contact lenses. Start by marking “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” as Want to Read: Error rating book. Part travelogue and part confessional, "Barbarian Days" is worth the effort. A staff writer at The New Yorker since 1987, he lives in Manhattan. It would be twenty years before I picked up surfing again. Zugelassene Drittanbieter verwenden diese Tools auch in Verbindung mit der Anzeige von Werbung durch uns. The images contained in this book made me feel like I was reading a treasured journal or scrapbook.

-Washington Post

Visceral details and descriptions and insider jargon draws us into the author’s globe-trotting adventures as he chronicles his enduring love for the art of surfing. Which, by the way, I am severely jealous of his superb memory. Wählen Sie ein Land/eine Region für Ihren Einkauf. Bitte haben Sie Verständnis, dass wir Ihnen keine Rückmeldung geben können. A staff writer at The New Yorker since 1987, he lives in Manhattan. We rang up Bill just an hour or so after the announcement, to hear how he was handling the big news. Mit dem Abschicken dieser Anmeldung erlauben Sie uns, Sie regelmäßig und kostenlos per E-Mail und/oder per personalisierter Anzeige auf fremden Kanälen (z.B.

Every break gets its own character and mood, patiently and delicately dissected; it makes the sport (for want of a better word) intelligible and interesting, and illuminates the spirituality of it too, without ever referencing it as such. He's always attuned to his surroundings, and his reflections are often tinged with self-effacing wit." Finnegan’s writing is meditative and technical about swells, waves, boards, reefs and weather. I got a lot of feedback from people who’d never surfed in their lives, and couldn’t care less, saying “I never thought I’d read a paragraph about surfing, but I read your whole book.” That’s what earned me this award, honestly.

It's a phenomena all life long surfers will understand. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child.

Rezension aus Deutschland vom 10. From a carefree and independent child of the 70’s and surfing the California and Hawaii coasts, to his worldwide pursuit of every imaginable surfing locale, his adventure is elegantly chronicled.

I could almost smell the salt in the air and faintly hear the waves off in the distance. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa.

Außerdem analysiert es Rezensionen, um die Vertrauenswürdigkeit zu überprüfen. For surfers, the book is The Endless Summer writ smarter and larger, touching down at every iconic break.” —Los Angeles Magazine    “Vivid and propulsive…Finnegan…has seen things from the tops of ocean peaks that would disturb most surfers’ dreams for weeks.